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Rakaposhi

Rakaposhi
Elevation:7,788 metres (25,550 feet)
Latitude:36° 10′ N
Longitude:74° 30′ E
Location:Pakistan
Range:Karakoram
First ascent:1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey
Easiest route:glacier/snow/ice climb

Rakaposhi is a mountain in the Karakoram region of the Pakistani Himalaya. Rakaposh means "shining wall" in the local language. Rakaposhi is also known as Rakaposhi Peak, Rakapushi and Dumani ("Mother of Mist").

There are magnificent views of Rakaposhi from the Karakoram Highway on the route through Hunza.

Rakaposhi was first climbed in 1958 by Mike Banks and Tom Patey of a Britain-Pakistan expedition. Both of them suffered severe frostbite during the ascent. Another climber slipped and fell on the descent and died during the night.

Time line

  • 1938 M. Vyvyan and R. Campbell Secord make the first reconnaissance and climb the north-western peak (about 6,858m/22,500') via the north ridge.
  • 1947 Tilman and his party ascend via the Kunti glacier to 6,200m/20,340' on the south-west spur
  • 1954 Cambridge University team attempted via the south-west spur but only reached 6,340m/20,800'.
  • 1956 British-American expedition reach 7,163m/23,500', above the Kunti glacier.

Climbing routes

Rakaposhi is climbable from all sides but the three main climbing routes:

  • southeast face via the Goglot Goh Glacier .
  • northwest
  • west face via the Pissan Glacier .

Reference

External link

Last updated: 06-01-2005 16:49:01
10-26-2009 08:16:03
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